Also in this issue: [Making Tracks Around Gotham]

For this Runner, Food Matters

New York Runner asked food writer Mark Bittman to share some recipes from The Food Matters Cookbook. Cristina Rivera, MS, RD, CSSD, CDN, a registered dietician and board-certified sports nutritionist, weighed in on the recipes and why they’re good choices for distance runners.


Sweet Porridge
Makes: 4 to 6 servings
Time: 15 minutes

Ingredients
Salt
2 cups grains, like rolled oats (or other rolled grain), cracked wheat, quinoa, millet, or short-grain brown rice
1 tablespoon butter, or to taste, optional

1. Combine 4 to 4 1/2 cups water (more water will produce creamier porridge), a pinch of salt, and the grains in a medium saucepan and turn the heat to high. When the water boils, turn the heat down so the mixture bubbles gently and cook, stirring frequently, until the water is just absorbed: about 5 minutes for rolled oats, 15 minutes for cornmeal or cracked wheat, 30 minutes for quinoa or millet, or up to 45 minutes or more for brown rice. Add water as needed to keep the porridge from sticking.

2. When the grains are very soft and the mixture is thickened, serve or cover the pan and turn off the heat; you can let it sit for up to 15 minutes. Uncover, stir, add butter as desired, and serve with any of the additions listed opposite, alone or in combination (or store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to a week or in the freezer for up to a month).

Additions for Sweet Porridge:
- Honey, sugar, or maple syrup
- Chopped fresh, dried, or candied fruit
- Chopped nuts or seeds, or a spoonful of nut butter
- Vanilla extract
- A splash of milk or cream
- Shredded, unsweetened coconut or a splash of coconut milk

Rivera notes that the best toppings for runners are walnuts or almonds, which are loaded with omega three fatty acids, and fresh or dried fruits, which are rich in the anti-oxidants that endurance athletes need. “For extra calcium, vitamin D and protein, you could try making it with low-fat milk instead of water,” suggests Rivera.

Ingredients
1/3 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons wine vinegar, or to taste
3 anchovy fillets, with a bit of their oil (or use more capers)
1 tablespoon capers, with a bit of their brine
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
Black pepper
8 cups chopped romaine lettuce
1 cup cooked or canned chickpeas or white beans, drained
2 ripe tomatoes, chopped
1 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced
1/2 cup chopped hard-boiled eggs, prosciutto, or cooked chicken, or crumbled Gorgonzola

1. Combine the oil, vinegar, anchovies, capers, parsley, and black pepper in a blender and turn the machine on; a creamy emulsion will form within 30 seconds. Taste and add more vinegar or pepper if necessary. (If you don’t have—or don’t want to use—a blender, chop the anchovies and capers and whisk all the ingredients together in a small bowl.)

2. Put the romaine in the center of a large platter, plate, or shallow bowl and spoon the other ingredients around it in rows or mounds. Just before serving, drizzle the top with the vinaigrette, toss it at the table, and serve.

“Anchovies are not only a good source of protein, which builds and repairs muscle, but they’re also high in omega-3 fatty acids, which counteract inflammation,” says Rivera. She also notes that fiber-rich chickpeas are an ideal carbohydrate. Fiber helps you full and sustains energy, while iron and B vitamins fuel your run. Adding a hardboiled egg provides vitamin D, on which runners are usually low.

Pasta with Broccoli Rabe and Bread Crumbs
Makes: 4 servings
Time: 30 minutes     

   
Ingredients
Salt
1/2 cup olive oil, or more as needed
1 cup bread crumbs, preferably whole grain and homemade
1 onion, chopped
1 tablespoon minced garlic, or to taste
About 1 pound broccoli rabe, chopped
1/2 cup white wine or water
8 ounces any pasta, preferably whole wheat
Black pepper
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese, optional

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Put half of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When it’s hot, add the bread crumbs, sprinkle with salt, and cook until golden, 5 minutes or so. Remove with a slotted spoon.

2. Add the remaining 1/4 cup oil to the pan and let it heat a bit. Add the onion, garlic, and a little salt and cook, stirring occasionally until the onion begins to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the broccoli rabe and wine. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the rabe is quite tender, about 10 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in the boiling water until it’s tender but not mushy (start tasting after 5 minutes), then drain it, reserving some of the cooking water. Toss the pasta in the skillet with the rabe mixture, the bread crumbs, a good sprinkling of black pepper, and some of the reserved pasta cooking water. Stir and heat until the mixture is saucy, adding a little more pasta cooking water (or oil) if necessary. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve, passing the cheese at the table if you like.

Variation: Pasta with Broccoli Rabe, Anchovies, and Bread Crumbs. In Step 2, add 4 anchovies (or more, if you like) to the skillet along with the onion and garlic; wait to salt the dish until you assemble it. Mash the anchovies with a fork or potato masher as the onion cooks, then proceed with the recipe.

“Whole-grain pasta is a great source of high-fiber carbohydrate, meaning it will give you the energy you need to run without the ‘crash’ in blood sugar you might experience after eating pasta made with refined flour,” says Rivera. Whole grains also provide potassium, magnesium, and B vitamins, which all play a role in energy production. Rivera also notes that broccoli rabe is a great source of immune-boosting vitamin C and iron. Inadequate iron stores can hurt performance, and lead to an overall feeling of tiredness. 

All recipes from The Food Matters Cookbook: 500 Revolutionary Recipes for Better Living by Mark Bittman (Simon & Schuster, 2010). Bittman is the author of How to Cook Everything and a columnist for the New York Times.